Aloha,
Greetings from the beautiful garden island of Kauai, the undiscovered Hawaiian island. You can see why this beautiful lush island is called the garden island by some of the attached pictures, along with the fact that it is the wettest place on earth. The trip was an impromptu adventure; lacking only in detailed reservations. In fact, the only reservation that I had was the first night’s stay in the capital town of Lihue. Even the interisland flights from Honolulu to Kauai, and back, were of a “walk up to the counter” nature, as usually reservations are not required, and the prices between island flights are usually the same.
The first night consisted of landing in Honolulu at about 8PM, walking over to the Hawaiian airlines terminal and asking for the next flight to Kauai, about a 25 minute flight on a small plane. Lihue’s airport is small and friendly, a quick $9 cab ride to my night’s stay to unload after a long, but relaxing flight. I walked around Lihue town for a little upon arrival, but nothing was going on, not even a place to grab a beer, so sleep was on the agenda.
The next morning consisted of having breakfast at the local’s place…Danny’s in Lihue. I had a great breakfast and then noticed that I was being stared at by an elderly Hawaiian woman in a walker as she headed to the restroom. Her name was Yuki, and her daughter Diane said to me, “my Mom likes you”, Yuki is about 80 years old. I then got into a conversation with Diane about what travels were in store for me. Although plans did not include renting a car, I soon realized that getting around the island via local bus was not feasible. I told Diane that I planned on walking to the airport to pick up a car, she offered a ride, so I took her up on it. Diane, Yuki, and Norene then dropped me off at the airport and gave me their phone number in case I needed any help while being on the island; nice people. I proceeded to rent a brand new silver jeep via a great deal from AMEX and I was ready for the week.
Headed up to Hanalei passing through the centrally located small town of Kapaa, through Kilauea. A quick stop to visit the wildlife refuge that my friend Mary’s father helped to form. The albagross are thriving; this bird was the inspiration for the refuge, and his life’s work. There is a picture of Kilauea point attached. 
After a quick trip to the point, headed back into the jeep and to the North Shore. I drove up through Princeville and Hanalei to the base of the Kalalau trail, where the road stops at Kee beach. Turned around and headed back to Kaapa to find a place to stay for the night. Found a great place in the center of the plantation fairly close to the beach. Spent the day in Kapaa and then left in the morning to settle in Hanalei. Found a quaint little room in Hanalei just one block from the beach, and within walking distance of the beautiful little town of Hanalei. This was the first of three nights in the Hanalei area, I got to know the town very well, especially the only bar in town, the Tahiti Nui. They serve one of my favorite beers there, Hinano Tahiti. Pat, the bartender and Auntie Eleanor treated me great, although it took a few days to embed myself in the locals scene, and be accepted. I did cruise up to the Kalalau trailhead a couple of times, this brought some interesting experiences. The first time I caught a glance of one of the “community people” heading into Hanalei to get food. There is a community of about thirty people that live deep in the jungle on the Kalalau trail. Pebble’s, as I like to call her, was dressed in an orange garment wrapped around her waist and chest, barefoot, of course. She carried a large bag around her neck for food to bring back to the group. A local stopped and gave her a ride into town. Hitchhiking is a means of getting around from Hanalei to the trailhead. I picked up a hitchhiker, the very first hitcher that I’ve ever picked up ever, I wanted to ask him about the trail. Victor is a European with gray hair, he claimed that he was a computer programmer from Denver. When I asked him about the condition of the trail, he began by talking about the Kalalau trail, and then always seemed to come back to hiking some trails in Colorado, so I stopped asking him about it. I dropped him off in Hanalei and then circled around again. The best advice that I received from a deli owner while picking up my trail food was, “If you want to make friends with the community people…bring tobacco products”.
It’s rainy season in Kauai, November is the start of the winter there. The trail was muddy and slick, it began raining usually each morning, and then the sun would appear at about 10 AM. The trail was full of steep lush terrain, and quick descents. After crossing the first stream crossing, I met another of the community people, he was taking a break, I noticed two full backbacks leaning up against one another. I continued up the trail and passed two other community people coming the other way, they didn’t carry any backpacks or anything. I stopped to take a break and was greeted by the barefoot guy with long dreadlocked hair carrying two stuffed large backpacks with supplies and a large staff made of petrified wood. I said Hello and said, “I thought there were two of you” with the two backpacks and all. He said “No, but the two backpacks even out the weight…and I didn’t even have to push someone off the cliff to get it…”.
It made me recall the poster of the missing hiker in the permit office. He was last seen on the trail in 2008, he had a tattoo of an Irish crescent, and his gear was found abandoned on Kee beach, at the base of the trail. I continued up the trail, it was raining on and off, which was somewhat refreshing as it was about eight-five degrees. Hiking the trail was a great experience, it was challenging and beautiful.
http://www.kauaiexplorer.com/kalalau_hike.mov
The next day I spent in Hanalei, I boogie boarded in the Hanalei Bay, the water was crystal clear and blue. Some pictures are attached of the great landscape that surround the bay. There was a great local reggae band at the Tahiti Nui, as well as plenty of Hinano Tahiti beer. This was my last day at the Tahiti Nui. Pat, the bartender, and Auntie Eleanor treated me great as we watched tourists come and go while listening to great live Hawaiian music.
It was time to leave the North Shore and head to the South and West side of the island. I spent some time in Poipu beach, near the historic plantation town of Koloa. I set a base up there and headed out each day for the next two days to Palihale state park and then Waimea canyon. Palihale is a picturesque scene of four-wheeling and great mountain views. I four wheeled all day, even taking the jeep on the beautiful Napali beach. Although, my confidence level was not too great once I was on the beach. If you get stuck in the beach sand, there is no tow truck out there. So I made a quick ten minute ride of it, viewing the restricted Hawaiian island of Nihau in the distance. This island is visited via invitation only, there are 195 permanent residents, only Hawaiians. After a great day of four wheeling the very East side of the island, it was time to head back to the base.
The next day was another adventurous day exploring the Waimea canyon via jeep. This is the wettest spot on the planet. There are some incredible views of the Kalalau Valley, as well as the Waimea canyon attached. It was rainy at the top of Kokee state park, but every now and then, the sun would appear to reveal some spectacular views. After a day of exploring, I headed back to the base and prepared to head back to Honolulu the next day.
I flew out of the Lihue airport and landed in Honolulu early in the day. Arrived at the beautiful Sheraton Princess Kailiani in the center of Waikiki, this was my home for six months in 2002. Quickly headed out to swim in the clear waters of Waikiki, followed by a great dinner at Duke’s. Found an old hangout known as Legends bar that is owned by John from Somerville, NJ. They have Samuel Adams on tap, so I felt right at home at Legends. Headed home late from Legends after meeting some great new friends. The walk around the Princess Kailiani is always interesting in the early morning hours.
The last day in Hawaii(this trip) started with a walk from Waikiki to the Diamond Head state park, with a quick stop for breakfast at a local restaurant. I then proceeded to head up the Diamond Head trail and took in some great views of Honolulu, and Kailua to the East. Headed back to Waikiki, this time via public bus, and swam at the Waikiki beach for the afternoon. After a late check out, a relaxing dinner at Duke’s and then off to the airport to return to the mainland. This was a great trip. Kauai is known as the undiscovered island, it is beautiful and people are very friendly.
Tommy Fitch
March 5, 2012
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